If New Orleans is a town with a Drinking Problem, Antigua is a town with a Chocolate Problem. It is sold in every form, everywhere, until you think it must have been invented here. Well, it was, in a way. But that was long ago and in another culture. The annual world prodution of cacao beans is now about 3 million tons, of which Guatemala produces a hardly noticable 1000 tons- not even enough to supply its national consumption.
The choclate tree is a minor bush, just taller than a man, living in the shady underbrush of the jungle. It is easy to spot because of the large bright yellow or orange cacao pods hanging directly off the trunk. Botanists believe it is indigenous to the Amazon jungle in Ecuador, and was brought to Central America in early Maya times. In the Yucatan, it was raised in the shady cool cenotes that dot the landscape. It was too rare and expensive for commoners in those days, and was consumed mainly by royalty. In fact, one of the great rulers of Tikal was named Akh Kakao, Lord Chocolate..
Today the hub of traditional chocolate production is in the little town of San Juan Obispo, located just up the hill from Antigua, on the slopes of the Volcan de Agua, clearly visible from everywhere in town. Here numerous small family factories have been producing homemade drinking chocolate for generations. Bar chocolate is a European invention, and was never produced in Guatemala until the Danta factory started up in 2008. Google it.
I have been enjoying my morning coffee with a few pieces of a 90% cacao bar melted into it, just by the heat of the coffee. Everyone says it is a vaso-relaxer, very good for the blood pressure. I believe this myself, though I have not abandoned my morning b.p. pills.
Valentine's Day is just passed and the chocolate mania peaked out. The little spa down the street advertised a chocolate massage for couples, one solid hour for two, $72. We passed it up.
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