Before arriving in Colombia I had heard nothing but positive reports from other travellers that had recently visited, with many saying with a knowing look that I would end up spending a lot longer here than I expected! I hate to pander to the stereotypes but they were exactly right, as I've already been here 6 weeks and this may be the first country where I have to do a nifty quickstep across the nearest border to renew a visa, as the three months I was given doesn't look like its going to be enough!
The trip didn't start too auspiciously with a looooong bus (close to 24 hours instead of the expected 14-15) from Ecuador, which reached the southern town of Popoyan so late in the day that all the buses to my intended destination of Tierradentro had already upped and left!! Anyway, for a town I only visited by accident it turned out to be very pleasant, with its nickname of the “white city” earned through its well preserved historic centre which was great to wander around. It was also very close to Volcan Purace, a 4,750 metre peak supposedly offering superb views.
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